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Broiled Swordfish À La Niçoise

Broiled Swordfish À La Niçoise


  • 1/2 pound haricots verts, trimmed
  • 2 cups grape tomatoes, halved
  • 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved
  • 1 medium-size red onion, sliced
  • 1/3 cup plus 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
  • 8 6-ounce swordfish steaks
  • 2 medium-size red bell peppers, thinly sliced
  • 2 medium-size yellow bell peppers, thinly sliced

Recipe Preparation

  • Bring 12 cups water to boil in large pot. Add barley. Cover pot; reduce heat to medium. Simmer until barley is tender, about 30 minutes. Add haricots verts; boil until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain. Place mixture in large bowl. Mix in tomatoes, olives, onion, 1/3 cup oil, lemon juice, thyme, and lemon peel. DO AHEAD Barley can be made 2 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.

  • Preheat broiler. Whisk 1/2 cup oil and garlic in bowl. Turn fish in oil mixture; divide fish between 2 rimmed baking sheets. Toss peppers in oil mixture; divide between baking sheets. Drizzle remaining oil from bowl over fish and peppers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

  • Place 1 pan in broiler 3 minutes. Turn fish over; broil until fish is opaque in center and peppers begin to blacken, about 2 minutes longer. Repeat with remaining fish and peppers. Divide barley salad among plates. Top with fish and peppers and drizzle with pan juices. Serve with lemon wedges.

,Photos by Pornchai MittongtareReviews Section

French cheeses can make a meal on their own, certainly when paired with freshly baked bread! Cheese has a long history in France of being served after a meal, before the dessert. Cheeses are regional in France, just like wine. While some cheeses overlap between regions, there are particular cheeses that hail from certain regions. In any good supermarket though you can find cheeses of all types, from goat and sheep milk cheeses, to more traditional, hard, aged, cheeses. French cheeses are best paired with French wines.

Traditional French soups depend on the region of France. Several popular French soups exist, such as bouillabaisse, which is known all around the world by its French name.


Bouillabaisse is a French fish soup that is a specialty of the region of Provence. On the Mediterranean Ocean, it's no wonder that this fish soup features seafood, tomatoes, onions and garlic. The name of the soup comes from the French word "to boil" (bouillir), and the finished product is served with bread, usually to large groups of people. While many soups are not main courses, bouillabaisse is a meal in and of itself.

Pumpkin Soup

In the center of France, soupe au potiron is a favorite. In the fall, when pumpkins and potatoes are harvested, this soup is featured on many traditional tables. The main ingredients are mixed with cream and topped with croutons or served with a freshly baked baguette.

Chestnut Soup

Another seasonal favorite is soupe aux chataignes. Locally grown chestnuts are mixed with potatoes, leeks, and turnips to make a hearty, and yet sweet, winter soup. While this French soup is more difficult to make because finding fresh chestnuts and peeling them can be tricky, it is a great recipe to try for a special occasion.

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The French Chef introduced French cooking to the United States at a time when it was considered expensive restaurant fare, not suitable for home cooking. [ citation needed ] Child emphasised fresh and, at the time, unusual ingredients. All of the recipes used on The French Chef had originally appeared in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, but for the show, Child chose mostly the more domestic recipes from the book, [ citation needed ] although such showpieces as Beef Wellington, various sorts of soufflé, and some ambitious pastries also made it into the mix if they seemed within the reach of a home cook without staff.

The show was done live-to-videotape from start to finish, leaving little room for mistakes. The resulting occasional accidents became a popular trademark of Child's on air presence, used as "teachable moments" to encourage viewers to relax about the task's demands.

Certain elements became motifs: Julia's fondness for wine her distinctive voice her staunch defense of the use of butter (with margarine invariably referred to as "that other spread") and cream her standard issue "impeccably clean towel" and her closing line at the end of every show: "This is Julia Child, Bon appétit!"

So good is she that men who have not the slightest intention of going to the kitchen for anything but ice cubes watch her for pure enjoyment.

Child's first appearance cooking on TV had been by happenstance: a guest for another show on WGBH had cancelled their appearance, as did the backup guest. Child was invited to do a cooking demonstration, which received positive feedback and prompted executives to order a pilot. [3]

When the show began, the budget was so low that "volunteers had to be recruited to wash dishes, and the food sometimes had to be auctioned to the audience afterwards to cover expenses." [2]

In 1964 Child received a Peabody Award, crediting her for doing "more than show us how good cooking is achieved by her delightful demonstrations she has brought the pleasures of good living into many American homes." [4] In May 1966, her show won a Primetime Emmy Award for Achievements in Educational Television – Individuals. [5]

The August 27, 1968 episode of The French Chef (rerun from an episode sometime in 1965) ended with the unexpected collapse of an Apple Charlotte.

The October 31, 1971 episode of The French Chef (on its ninth anniversary) was the first U.S. television show to be captioned for deaf viewers. [6]

The show was produced by Ruth Lockwood and directed by Russell Morash, Russell Fortier, David Griffiths and David B. Atwood. [7] Film composer John Morris wrote the 2nd theme song of The French Chef.

The show eventually became so popular that Child's use of a particular ingredient each week would sometimes cause a surge in demand and lead to grocery stores across the country temporarily selling out of it. [3]

As part of its growing Twitch Creative content, Twitch streamed every episode of The French Chef over a four-day period starting on March 15, 2016, to launch its new food channel. [8] [9] Twitch reported that almost a million viewers watched the marathon. [10]

Pilots (1962) Edit

The three pilot episodes were subsequently taped over by the studio, a common practice at the time. No copies are known to exist today.

Episode Subject Air Date
Pilot The French Omelet July 28, 1962 [11]
Pilot Coq au Vin July 1962 [12]
Pilot Onion Soup July 1962 [13]

Season 1 (1963) Edit

Child wrote that the first 13 episodes were lost at one point, but then 7 were found if so, this would add an additional 6 episodes between episode 7 "Fruit Tarts" and what is listed here as episode 8 "Chicken Breasts and Rice" (which would have actually been episode 14). [ citation needed ]

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Boeuf Bourguignon February 2, 1963
E02 French Onion Soup February 9, 1963
E03 Casserole Roast Chicken February 16, 1963
E04 The French Omelette February 23, 1963
E05 Scallops March 2, 1963
E06 Quiche Lorraine March 9, 1963
E07 Fruit Tarts March 16, 1963
E08 Chicken Breasts and Rice March 23, 1963
E09 Vegetables à la Française March 30, 1963
E10 Veal Scallops April 6, 1963
E11 French Salads- Mayonnaise April 13, 1963
E12 Chicken Livers à la Française April 20, 1963
E13 Roast Duck à l'Orange April 27, 1963
E14 Chocolate Mousse and Caramel Custard May 4, 1963
E15 Pâtés May 11, 1963
E16 Aspics May 18, 1963
E17 Bouillabaise May 25, 1963
E18 Lobster à l'Américaine June 1, 1963
E19 French Crêpes June 8, 1963
E20 French Crêpes II - Suzette June 15, 1963
E21 Steaks and Hamburgers June 22, 1963
E22 The Potato Show June 29, 1963
E23 Soufflé on a Platter July 6, 1963
E24 Dinner in a Pot July 13, 1963
E25 Pâte à Choux July 20, 1963

Season 2 (1963-1964) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Caramel Desserts November 30, 1963
E02 Cooking Your Goose December 7, 1963
E03 Chestnut Cookery December 14, 1963
E04 Bringing in the New Year December 21, 1963
E05 Coq au Vin January 1, 1964
E06 Cassoulet January 8, 1964
E07 Vegetable Adventures January 15, 1964
E08 Puff Pastry January 22, 1964
E09 More about Puff Pastry January 29, 1964
E10 Fish Mousselines February 5, 1964
E11 Cake for Company February 12, 1964
E12 Artichokes from Top to Bottom February 19, 1964
E13 Elegance with Eggs February 26, 1964
E14 Cold Soufflés and Bavarian Cream March 4, 1964
E15 Case for Salmon March 11, 1964
E16 Broccoli and Cauliflower March 18, 1964
E17 Veal for a King March 25, 1964
E18 The Soup Show April 1, 1964
E19 Flaming Soufflé April 8, 1964
E20 Small Roast Birds April 15, 1964

Season 3 (1964-1965) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Timbales April 22, 1964
E02 Fish Filets Sylvestre October 28, 1964
E03 Babas au Rhum November 4, 1964
E04 Chicken Dinner in Half an Hour November 11, 1964
E05 Rognons Sautés and Flambés December 2, 1964
E06 The Mushroom Show December 9, 1964
E07 Veal Dinner in Half an Hour December 16, 1964
E08 Broiled Chicken Plain and Saucy December 23, 1964
E09 Lamb Stew is French, Too January 6, 1965
E10 Introducing Charlotte Malakoff January 13, 1965
E11 Hot Turkey Ballotine January 20, 1965
E12 Cold Turkey Galantine January 27, 1965
E13 Le Marquis au Chocolate February 3, 1965
E14 Vegetables for the Birds February 10, 1965
E15 French Tarts, Apple Style February 17, 1965
E16 French Jelly Roll February 24, 1965
E17 Bûche de Noël March 3, 1965
E18 Beef Gets Stewed Two Ways March 10, 1965
E19 Ham Dinner in Half an Hour March 17, 1965
E20 Croissants March 24, 1965

Season 4 (1965) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Chocolate Souffle March 31, 1965
E02 Four in Hand Chicken April 7, 1965
E03 Brioches April 14, 1965
E04 Veal Prince Orloff April 21, 1965
E05 Great Beginnings April 28, 1965
E06 Turban of Sole May 5, 1965
E07 Strawberry Tarts May 12, 1965
E08 The Shrimp Show May 19, 1965
E09 Salad Fixings May 26, 1965
E10 Non-collapsible Cheese Soufflé June 2, 1965
E11 Quiches June 9, 1965
E12 Fish Dinner in Half an Hour June 16, 1965
E13 French Veal Stew June 23, 1965
E14 Improvisation June 30, 1965
E15 The Empress's Rice July 7, 1965
E16 Coquilles St. Jacques July 14, 1965
E17 More about Steaks July 21, 1965
E18 To Poach a Salmon July 28, 1965
E19 Invitation To Lunch August 4, 1965
E20 Beef in Red Wine November 17, 1965

Season 5 (1965-1966) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Your Own French Onion Soup November 24, 1965
E02 Chicken in Cocotte December 11, 1965
E03 Queen of Sheba Cake (black & white) December 18, 1965
E04 New Year January 1, 1966
E05 To Poach Sole Filets January 8, 1966
E06 Chop Dinner in Half an Hour January 15, 1966
E07 Filet of Beef Wellington January 22, 1966
E08 Apple Charlotte January 29, 1966
E09 More Great Beginnings February 5, 1966
E10 Roast Suckling Pig February 12, 1966
E11 More about Potatoes February 19, 1966
E12 Steak Dinner in Half an Hour February 26, 1966
E13 The Endive Show March 5, 1966
E14 Saddle of Lamb March 12, 1966
E15 Napoleons March 19, 1966
E16 Paella à l'Américaine March 26, 1966
E17 Dinner Party First Course April 6, 1966
E18 Dinner Party Main Course April 13, 1966
E19 Dinner Party Meringue Dessert April 20, 1966
E20 Soupe au Pistou April 27, 1966
E21 Quenelles May 4, 1966

Season 6 (1966) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Génoise Cake May 11, 1966
E02 Petits Fours May 18, 1966
E03 The Mayonnaise Show May 25, 1966
E04 Swordfish Dinner in a Half Hour June 1, 1966
E05 Ossobuco June 8, 1966
E06 Sweetbreads and Brains June 15, 1966
E07 Asparagus from Tip to Butt June 22, 1966
E08 Operation Chicken June 29, 1966
E09 To Poach a Chicken July 6, 1966
E10 Mousses, Bombes and Parfaits July 13, 1966
E11 Bourride and Aïoli July 20, 1966
E12 To Poach an Egg July 27, 1966
E13 Roast Leg of Lamb August 3, 1966
E14 Lobster Thermidor August 10, 1966
E15 Speaking of Tongues August 17, 1966
E16 Pipérade for Lunch August 24, 1966
E17 Turban of Sole August 31, 1966

Season 7 (1970-1971) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Bouillabaisse à la Marseillaise (color) October 7, 1970
E02 Napoleon's Chicken October 14, 1970
E03 Spinach Twins October 21, 1970
E04 Cake with a Halo October 28, 1970
E05 Hamburger Dinner November 4, 1970
E06 Salade Niçoise November 11, 1970
E07 Turkey Breast Braised November 18, 1970
E08 Lasagne à la Française November 25, 1970
E09 Waiting for Gigot December 2, 1970
E10 How about Lentils December 9, 1970
E11 Fish in Monk's Clothing December 16, 1970
E12 Gâteau in a Cage December 23, 1970
E13 Cheese and Wine Party December 30, 1970
E14 Curry Dinner January 6, 1971
E15 Apple Desserts January 13, 1971
E16 Meat Loaf Masquerade January 20, 1971
E17 To Roast a Chicken January 27, 1971
E18 Hard Boiled Eggs February 3, 1971
E19 Boeuf Bourguignon February 10, 1971
E20 Strawberry Soufflé February 17, 1971
E21 Spaghetti Flambé February 24, 1971
E22 French Bread March 3, 1971
E23 More about French Bread March 10, 1971

Season 8 (1971) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 Vegetable for all Occasions March 17, 1971
E02 Pot au Feu March 24, 1971
E03 Pizza Variations March 31, 1971
E04 Begin with Shrimp April 7, 1971
E05 Chocolate Cake April 14, 1971
E06 Working with Chocolate April 21, 1971
E07 To Press a Duck April 28, 1971
E08 Flaky Pastry May 5, 1971
E09 Glamour Pudding May 12, 1971
E10 The Whole Fish Story May 19, 1971
E11 VIP Veal: Poitrine Farcie May 26, 1971
E12 Brochettes, Kebabs and Skewers June 2, 1971
E13 Rye Bread June 6, 1971
E14 Flaming Fish June 13, 1971
E15 Summer Salads June 20, 1971
E16 Lobster Show June 27, 1971
E17 Coq au Vin Alias Chicken Fricassee July 7, 1971
E18 Mousse au Chocolat July 14, 1971
E19 Quiche Lorraine and Company July 21, 1971
E20 To Stuff a Sausage July 28, 1971

Season 9 (1971-1972) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 The Artichoke November 3, 1971
E02 Tartes aux Fruits (Fruit Tarts) November 10, 1971
E03 To Roast a Turkey November 17, 1971
E04 French Croissants November 24, 1971
E05 Soup du Jour December 1, 1971
E06 Terrines and Pâtés December 8, 1971
E07 Madeleines and Génoise Jelly Roll December 15, 1971
E08 To Make a Bûche December 22, 1971
E09 Le Cocktail December 29, 1971
E10 Gallic Pot Roast January 2, 1972
E11 Cheese Soufflé January 9, 1972
E12 The Good Loaf January 16, 1972
E13 The Hollandaise Family January 23, 1972
E14 Tripes à la Mode January 30, 1972
E15 Sole Bonne Femme February 6, 1972
E16 Orange Bavarian Cream February 13, 1972
E17 To Stuff a Cabbage February 20, 1972
E18 The Omelette Show February 27, 1972
E19 Elegance with Aspic March 5, 1972
E20 French Fries March 12, 1972
E21 Ham Transformation March 19, 1972
E22 Ice Cream March 26, 1972

Season 10 (1972-1973) Edit

Episode Subject Air Date
E01 For Working Guys and Gals October 1, 1972
E02 Small Kitchen, Big Ideas October 8, 1972
E03 Coffee and Brioche October 15, 1972
E04 Brunch for a Bunch October 22, 1972
E05 VIP Cake [Le Brantome] October 29, 1972
E06 To Ragoût a Goose November 5, 1972
E07 Sudden Company November 12, 1972
E08 First Course Sit Down Dinner November 19, 1972
E09 Main Course Sit Down Dinner November 26, 1972
E10 Grand Finale Sit Down Dinner December 3, 1972
E11 Kids Want to Cook December 10, 1972
E12 Two-Dollar Banquet January 7, 1973
E13 Puff Pastry to Go January 14, 1973

Two companion cookbooks were written along with the show. The French Chef Cookbook was a show-by-show breakdown of the black and white series, [14] while From Julia Child's Kitchen was a somewhat more ambitious work that was based on the color series but also added considerable extra material. [15]

Nice: Going Straight to the Source for Provençal Cuisine

IF there's a problem with France, it is that the food is often entirely too "French." Offerings like crepes, coq au vin and cassoulet are so common that there is a danger of forgetting that they all have actual regions of origin and are not national dishes.

This danger is omnipresent in Nice, where 80 percent of the restaurants cater to 90 percent of the tourists by offering mostly "French" food, ignoring the well-defined, well-maintained, universally revered and quite wonderful cuisine of Provence. In Nice this cuisine is even more local, and it would be a shame to visit this old and quintessential Mediterranean city without indulging in cuisine Nissarde, to use the preferred indigenous word.

It would be disingenuous to say that the city's old quarter, known as Vieux Nice, is lost in time, but it does remain quiet and mysterious, a place apart. In the southern part of the area you get a sense of the nearby sea, but can only glimpse it through a couple of arches in the wall. A massive church looms at the end of a street almost too narrow for two people to walk abreast. And yet, on that same street, three not-yet-teenagers zoom back and forth on skateboards, bouncing off the walls.

Then there are the restaurants and takeout places, which run the gamut from the tourist traps on Cours Saleya to establishments that are among the most authentic in France. You might start, as so many people do, at the ultimate (and wonderful) tourist trap, Chez Theresa. Here stands the queenly Theresa, next to a portrait of herself, smoking a cigarette and expertly cutting a large round of socca —hot, peppery flatbread — into manageable pieces.

Her socca is even better straight from the oven, and you can find the oven (and other good socca joints) by taking Rue Droite north, where you'll also find the restaurants discussed here, as well as a medieval quarter that is as large and as well maintained as any in France.

Like much of this part of the world, Nice is warm but also mountainous and dry (think of Los Angeles). Rain falls almost exclusively in winter, so the cuisine is not one of plenty. For example, the most common dessert is tarte aux blettes, a sweet pie based on Swiss chard socca, a staple, is made of chickpea flour, water, olive oil and the occasional onion. In the authentic restaurants, fish is strictly local.

The good restaurants in Vieux Nice are truly authentic, not even remotely fancy, though a couple are lovely, especially if the weather allows you to sit outside. By fortunate coincidence, they're also notably inexpensive, though all of them would remain worth a visit if they doubled their prices.

Chez Palmyre is not the best restaurant in Vieux Nice, or even the best on Rue Droite (Acchiardo, I think, could make that claim), but if you asked me for the one restaurant you should not miss were you in town only for a day, this would be where Iɽ send you. It offers real, local home cooking, so that even if there were an equivalent in every city in the world (which there most decidedly is not), each would be unique.

Chez Palmyre is the opposite of stylish and trendy the décor is irrelevant, as if done by one of your more impoverished and tasteless older relatives. The service is friendly and effective the owner, a large, middle-aged, hard-working woman wearing coke-bottle glasses, brings you menus and tolerably decent wine, takes your order and proceeds to go cook it. The ingredients are from the local markets (by "local," I'm pretty sure we're talking about a half-mile radius), the menu changes daily, the repertory is limited, and the experience ironically exotic. What will you eat? I'm not sure nearly everything on the menu changes daily. For first courses, I sampled a plain but flavorful vegetable soup with croutons a fine little salade niçoise and hard-boiled eggs with anchovies, a fish with which this stretch of the Mediterranean is obsessed.

These were followed by fried sardines, done nearly perfectly and mouth-burningly hot or pasta "à l'Italienne" ("what does that mean?" I asked. "Bolognese!" Madame replied, as if there were no other) or alouette sans tête à lɺncienne, a version of rolled veal scallops, stuffed with ham, cheese and pork, and cooked in a strong, sweet sauce of tomatoes, carrots and wine. All were just fine, not the kind of food that makes you quiver with joy but that makes you sigh with satisfaction.

Just down the street is Acchiardo, a good-looking place with a bar, five rows of three tables, close together, and an attractive staff. The clientele is largely if not entirely local Acchiardo has made it into the guidebooks, but its charms do not readily reveal themselves to the non-adventurous.

I loved it. It's a loud, friendly (and smoky) place, where people drink as avidly as they eat, but where the food is far from an afterthought. Everything here was delicious, from the innovative-seeming swordfish with confited lemon to the perfectly cooked calf's liver spread with a perhaps unprecedented amount of parsley and raw garlic, to the soupe au pistou. And you should order any or all of those, or whatever else appeals to you the food seems consistently reliable.

But do not, under any circumstances, skip the classic niçois version of gnocchi (its name, even in French, cannot be printed here), made with Swiss chard and served with one of three sauces: gorgonzola, pistou or tomato. These are soft and light, and the sauces complement them perfectly.

For the most enjoyable atmosphere, a slight step up in service, and really classic niçoise cuisine, Iɽ opt for Lɾscalinada. Sit outside if at all possible the only traffic is by foot or bicycle, and the view of the pastel-colored buildings (and, often, their inhabitants, talking, yelling, sunning themselves or hanging laundry on their balconies) is soothing by both day and night. When you sit down, they'll bring you a huge bowl of chickpeas (you help yourself), a glass of kir and a square of pissaladière, the local, tomato-less, onion-laden version of pizza.

The nicely executed menu includes starters like stuffed encornets (squid bodies, filled with chard and rice), fried zucchini flowers and other tidbits, and roasted peppers. For main courses, there are off-cuts of meat like kidney and tripe, a variety of pasta dishes, delicious fried mullet, and secca dɾntrevaux, dried beef in the style of a nearby mountain town, sprinkled with oil and raw garlic.

Do order the porchetta. This is another local specialty, a slab of pork rolled around a number of cuts of meat (I could not count them), the size of a mortadella, which is to say maybe 10 inches across. The half-inch-thick slab makes a perfect mosaic on your plate and, seasoned as it is with fennel, black pepper, garlic and salt, and served with near-perfect gnocchi — so light as to vanish in the mouth — with a deconstructed pistou (basil, oil, garlic, salt, no more), it was an exemplary and even exciting dish.

There are other places worth mentioning, and to single out a few: La Table Alziari, owned by the family that produces the region's best-known olive oil (you've probably seen the blue-and-yellow can), is right next door to Lɾscalinada, with an equally pleasant outside eating scene. The food is just as good (it was a toss-up as to which I would give more attention, but the porchetta decided that) go for the unbelievable broiled sardines (stuffed, of course, with chard) and the chickpea frites.

For a snack, head up the street to René Socca, where you can get local specialties including socca and a sweet, delicious version of tarte aux blettes. At Lou Balico, just outside the old town, try the poutine omelet (in the spring, when they are in season), which will make a visit worthwhile.

Where to Eat

From abroad, dial 33-4, then the number in France, dial 04, then the number.

Chez Theresa, Cours Saleya 93-85-00-04. Socca, 2.5 euros, about $3.25 at $1.30 to the euro.

Chez Palmyre, 5, rue Droite 93-85-72-32. Dinner for two without wine, 26 euros.

Acchiardo, 38, rue Droite 93-85-51-16. Dinner for two without wine, about 50 euros.

Lɾscalinada, 22, rue Pairolière 93-62-11-71. Dinner for two without wine, 46 euros.

La Table Alziari, 4, rue François Zanin 93-80-34-03. Dinner for two with wine, 65 to 85 euros.

Lou Balico, 20, avenue St. Jean-Baptiste 93-85-93-71. Dinner for two with wine, about 65 euros.

René Socca, 1, rue Pairolière 93-92-05-73. A plate of appetizers with dessert is about 9 euros.

Auer, 7, rue St. Francois-de-Paule 93-85-77-98. A candy store about one-quarter pound of fruit confit costs 5.7 euros.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Whisk Wednesdays—Velouté Du Barry (Cream of Cauliflower Soup)

This is an easy soup to make if you don't have to take your daughter to a birthday party, pick her up from the party, go shopping for a different birthday party, take another daughter to a sleepover, make meals in-between, and watch Hoodwinked.

The soup is named after Contesse Dubarry, a favorite of Louix XV, and just so you know . the cauliflower represents the powdered wigs of the time.

First, you soak the cauliflower in vinegar for 5 minutes (or all afternoon while you're shopping!). The vinegar helps retain the whiteness of the cauliflower.

Roux + Stock = Velouté
Next, you cook the leeks and onions in some butter until translucent. By adding the rice flour (which absorbs more moisture than regular flour), you're making a light roux. The next step is to add white stock, such as chicken stock. Now, the mixture is called a velouté. Stir in all but 1 cup of the cauliflower florets and cook for about half-an-hour.

Here's a video showing how to make a velouté sauce.

After puréeing the soup, strain it through a fine-meshed strainer so that you get a velvety, smooth soup. Bring the soup to a boil and simmer for a bit on low.

The last step is to make the liaison, which is a mixture of cream and egg yolks that thickens the soup and adds a richness of flavor. This is the trickiest part of the recipe since the eggs can curdle. Slowly whisking some hot stock into the cream and egg mixture is key. After "tempering" the cream and egg mixture by bringing it up to a similar temperature as the stock, combine the rest of the stock and liaison in the pot. Then, stir and watch it carefully on the heat so that it thickens a bit more without letting it boil.

Cook the remaining cauliflower florets by boiling in salted water or steaming in the microwave. These will be part of the garnish, along with some toasted, homemade croutons.

1 small cauliflower
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large leek (white part only), chopped fine
1 large onion, chopped fine
¼ cup rice flour
6 cups Chicken Stock or water
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 slices firm white bread, crusts removed
1 egg yolk
1 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Chervil or parsley leaves for garnish

You can find the recipe for Velouté Du Barry (Cream of Cauliflower Soup) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home. To see how the rest of the Whisk Wednesdays group fared with their recipe, click here (or check out the sidebar) and then click on each blogger!

Tasting Notes
The soup was smooth, rich, flavorful, slightly salty and perfect with a crunch from a crouton.

Next Class
• Mignons de Porc Arlonaise (Pork Tenderloins with Beer) pages 367-368

Running total: $1,445.42 + $7.71 = $1,453.13
($1.29 per serving)

Butter used so far: 12 pounds, 22.5 tablespoons

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Caesar salad (page 154)

From The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins and Sarah Leah Chase

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  • Categories: Salads Lunch Main course Suppers Summer
  • Ingredients: romaine lettuce canned anchovies Parmesan cheese hard-cooked eggs pumpernickel bread

Le Bernardin, New York's only four-star seafood restaurant, is renowned not only for its impeccable cuisine but also for its understated elegance. Now the Le Bernardin experience is made accessible to everyone in more than 100 meticulously formulated and carefully tested recipes for all courses, from appetizers through dessert.

The food served in Le Bernardin's beautiful dining room is as subtle and refined as any in the world, and because fish and shellfish are often best turned out quickly and simply, the recipes in this book can be reproduced by any home cook.

Maguy Le Coze traces the origins of Le Bernardin's "simplicity" to her late brother, Gilbert, the restaurant's legendary cofounder and first chef: "Gilbert was not a classically trained chef," she says. "He had never been to culinary school. When he cooked, he made things he liked, and things he knew. He focused on the quality and freshness of the fish. He made nages and vinaigrettes because he'd never made a hollandaise or a béarnaise. He focused on flavors that were delicate, subtle, herb-infused."

Today, Chef Eric Ripert carries on that tradition with dishes such as Poached Halibut on Marinated Vegetables, Pan-Roasted Grouper with Wild Mushrooms and Artichokes, and Grilled Salmon with Mushroom Vinaigrette. And, of course, there are the desserts for which Le Bernardin is also so well known--from Chocolate Millefeuille to Honeyed Pear and Almond Cream Tarts.

Essential to the experience of dining at Le Bernardin and to the Le Bernardin Cookbook are the dynamic and charming personalities of Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert, whose lively dialogue and colorful anecdotes shine from these pages as brightly as the recipes themselves.

Thursday, 14 May 2009

Olio Extra Vergine di oliva, Olive Oil Montpeliano Restaurant

L'olio di oliva è un olio alimentare caratterizzato da un contenuto molto elevato di grassi monoinsaturi. Nella tipologia vergine si ricava dalla spremitura meccanica dell'oliva, frutto della specie Olea europaea. Altre tipologie merceologiche di olio derivato dalle olive, ma con proprietà dietetiche ed organolettiche differenti, si ottengono per rettificazione degli oli vergini e per estrazione con solvente dalla sansa di olive.
Prodotto originario della tradizione agroalimentare del Mediterraneo, l'olio d'oliva è attualmente prodotto anche nelle altre regioni a clima mediterraneo.

Le olive sono tradizionalmente raccolte (in alcune regioni) battendo le fronde con bastoni, in modo da provocare la caduta dei frutti che poi si raccolgono uno ad uno a mano. Una tecnica più moderna prevede l'utilizzo di abbacchiatori meccanici che scuotono i rami con minore danneggiamento per la pianta e le olive cadono su una rete predisposta a terra che permette poi di raccoglierle più rapidamente e con minore fatica.
La raccolta a mano con appositi pettini e sacche a tracolla su lunghe scale a pioli di legno, è ancora (2004) praticata in molte zone della Puglia, Sicilia, Abruzzo e della Calabria. Questa tecnica, sicuramente dispendiosa, consente di raccogliere frutti integri ed al giusto grado di maturazione. È ancora preferibile per le olive da conserva, ma rappresenta il primo degli elementi fondamentali per ottenere un olio extra vergine di oliva fragrante e privo di odori sgradevoli.
In genere nelle regioni più tradizionali del centro sud si usa battere con bastoni o rastrellare con rastrelli le olive in modo che possano cadere su delle reti che sono state precedentemente poste alla base dell'albero.
Se il terreno si trova in fase di discesa è necessario usare dei pioli o dei bastoni dalla parte più cadente per fare in modo che le olive che cadono sul telo di rete non scendano giù per il bosco o per il burrone.
Non meno importante al fine di ottenere un olio vergine esente da difetti è il metodo di stoccaggio delle olive. L'ideale è che le olive vengano raccolte in apposite "cassette areate" in plastica, che queste cassette vengano conservate lontano da fonti di calore e che le olive vengano "frante" nel giro di 18-24 ore dalla raccolta. Questo garantisce che le olive non fermentino in modo anaerobico dando origine alla formazione di "alcoli alifatici" che produrrebbero nell'olio difetti quali "riscaldo" e, in casi estremi, "muffa".

La produzione dell'olio d'oliva di maggiore importanza si basa su processi di estrazione esclusivamente meccanici. In questo modo si distinguono merceologicamente gli oli vergini da quelli ottenuti mediante processi basati su metodi fisici e chimici (oli di semi, oli di oliva rettificati e raffinati, oli di sansa).
Altre tecniche prevedono l'impiego di metodi fisici e chimici. Va però detto che le norme gli standard di qualità stabiliscono che un olio di oliva possa essere definito "vergine" solo se per la sua produzione siano stati impiegati esclusivamente metodi meccanici. L'olio ottenuto con il ricorso a metodi chimici e fisico-chimici è pertanto identificato con tipologie merceologiche differenti e distinte dal vergine.
Le linee di lavorazione nell'estrazione meccanica differiscono per i metodi usati nelle singole fasi, pertanto esistono tipologie d'impianto differenti. Oltre che per le caratteristiche tecniche gli impianti differiscono in modo marcato per la capacità di lavoro, il livello di meccanizzazione, l'organizzazione del lavoro, la resa qualitativa e quantitativa, i costi di produzione. In generale la linea di produzione di un oleificio comprende 5 fasi fondamentali:
Operazioni preliminari.
Estrazione del mosto d'olio.
Separazione dell'olio dall'acqua.
Stoccaggio, chiarificazione e imbottigliamento.

Opportuno sottolineare che i disciplinari di produzione per i marchi di Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) prevedono spesso l'utilizzo di tecniche tradizionali e norme restrittive e severe con l'intento di garantire un prodotto di qualità superiore e tradizionale con particolare riferimento alle varietà usate, che devono essere Autoctono biologia autoctone.

Watch the video: JIGGING-7 grouper ΡΟΦΟΣ ΕΝΑ ΨΑΡΙ ΠΟΛΥ ΜΕΓΑΛΟ sotos